top of page

Essential Dublin Travel Guide

  • Writer: Alex van Terheyden
    Alex van Terheyden
  • 12 hours ago
  • 11 min read

Updated: 7 hours ago


Temple Bar Dublin, Ireland
Temple Bar in Dublin - But Where Should you Drink when there is so much choice?

Dublin is one of those cities that rewards both the first-timer and the returning visitor. Compact enough to walk, layered with history, literature, music and excellent pubs, it still feels human-scale. As an Englishman and Irishman (yes I have an Eire Passport) who has visited many times, I’ve found it rewards a mix of the big-name sights and a bit of honest local realism — especially when it comes to prices and tourist traps.


This guide is designed to be practical. It includes my own airport transfer video, a real-world check of Guinness prices in Temple Bar, and clear recommendations for both paid attractions and free museums. Whether you’re arriving early, have free time, or simply want a solid overview, this should help you make the most of the city.


Getting to Dublin & Airport to City Centre

Dublin Airport (DUB) sits about 12–13 km north of the city centre. There is currently no direct train or metro (MetroLink is still years away), so your options are coach, bus or taxi.

I filmed a dedicated guide covering the practical choices: Watch: How to get from Dublin


Airport to the centre of Dublin – Travel Guide Video >>



Quick summary of options (prices change, so always double-check):

  • Dublin Express or Aircoach — Comfortable express coaches, frequent, luggage-friendly. Usually the best balance of price and convenience for most visitors.

  • Dublin Bus (routes 16/41 etc.) — Cheapest option if you have a Leap Card, but slower and limited luggage space.

  • Taxi / Uber / FreeNow — Door-to-door, reliable, but more expensive (especially at peak times or late night).


A Leap Card is worth getting if you’ll use public transport during your stay. You can buy one at the airport.


Getting Around Dublin

Dublin is very walkable in the centre. The Luas (tram) and buses cover the rest well. A Leap Card makes life easier and cheaper. For longer distances or rainy days, taxis and ride-hailing apps work fine. Cycling is possible, but the traffic and weather can make it less appealing for casual visitors.


Key Areas & What to See


Temple Bar – Atmosphere and Reality


The Famous Temple Bar
The Famous Temple Bar

Temple Bar is the most famous district in Dublin, and the one most visitors experience first. Cobblestone streets, live music spilling out of doorways, and a lively (sometimes chaotic) atmosphere. It is worth walking through at least once, especially in the early evening when the light is still good and the crowds are building.


It is also the most expensive place in the city to drink. I walked the length of Temple Bar specifically to record actual Guinness prices at a wide range of pubs, so you know what to expect before you order.


Watch: I Checked Guinness Prices in Temple Bar to Save You Money!


The video shows a clear spread — some pubs are merely expensive, others are significantly overpriced even by Dublin standards. Use it as a reality check. Many of the better traditional music sessions and better-value pints are found a short walk outside the absolute core of Temple Bar. Ask your hotel or a friendly local for current recommendations; the good spots shift over time.


When in Dublin - There's always time for a Pint!
When in Dublin - There's always time for a Pint!

Trinity College is Ireland’s oldest university, founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I. The campus itself is a calm, elegant space right in the middle of the city — a welcome contrast to the busier streets outside. The main draw for most visitors is the Book of Kells Experience.


]The Book of Kells is a stunning illuminated manuscript of the four Gospels, created by monks around the year 800. The intricate detail, the colours, and the sheer craftsmanship still stop people in their tracks more than a thousand years later. The modern visitor experience includes an exhibition that explains how the book was made, the world it came from, and why it survived. You then see the manuscript itself in the Old Library under carefully controlled conditions.


It is popular and ticketed, so booking ahead is strongly recommended, especially in peak season or on weekends: https://www.visittrinity.ie/book-of-kells-experience/


Even if you have seen photographs, the real thing has a presence that screens cannot fully capture. Allow time afterwards to walk the campus quadrangles — they are one of the most pleasant public spaces in the city.


The Library at Trinity College Dublin where the Book of Kells is to be found.
The Library at Trinity College Dublin where the Book of Kells is to be found.

Dublin Castle sits right in the centre and has been a seat of power for centuries. The site began as a Viking fortress, was developed by the Normans, served as the centre of British administration in Ireland for hundreds of years, and later became part of the story of independent Ireland. The State Apartments are the highlight for most visitors — grand rooms that have hosted everything from royal visits to modern state occasions. The grounds and courtyards are also worth exploring at a slower pace. It is an easy place to fit into a morning or afternoon in the city centre.

Dublin Castle is one of the most important buildings in Irish history. From 1204 until 1922 it was the seat of English, and later British rule in Ireland.
Dublin Castle is one of the most important buildings in Irish history. From 1204 until 1922 it was the seat of English, and later British rule in Ireland.


One Must Drink Guinness when in Dublin!
One Must Drink Guinness when in Dublin!

For many people, this is the single most famous Dublin experience, and with good reason. The self-guided tour takes you through the history of the brewery, the ingredients, the process, and the brand’s place in Irish culture. It is well designed and moves at your own pace. The highlight for most visitors is the Gravity Bar at the top, which offers a 360-degree view over the city — one of the best elevated views you will get without climbing a church tower.



Is it touristy? Yes. Is it still worth doing at least once? For most first-time visitors, yes. If you have been before, you may prefer to spend the time elsewhere, but the view alone still justifies a visit for many people.


Jameson Distillery Experience
Jameson Distillery Experience

If you prefer whiskey to stout, or simply want a second major drinks experience, the Jameson Distillery Bow St. is an excellent alternative or addition. The tour is well structured, the guides are usually good, and the tasting at the end is the point of the exercise. It feels slightly less overwhelming than the Guinness Storehouse and gives a clear sense of how Irish whiskey is made and why it differs from Scotch.



Both Guinness and Jameson can be done on the same day if you start early, but most people prefer to choose one major paid experience and leave room for other things.


The Wondering Englishman & Phil Lynott
The Wondering Englishman & Phil Lynott

Tucked away on Curved Street in the heart of Temple Bar, this is one of Dublin’s more enjoyable and interactive attractions for anyone interested in music. It is not a traditional static museum — it is a guided tour through a working complex of rehearsal rooms and recording studios that have been used by the likes of U2, Thin Lizzy, Sinéad O’Connor, Rory Gallagher and many others over the decades.


You walk through the actual spaces, see memorabilia and instruments, get the stories from enthusiastic guides, and in some rooms you can even pick up a guitar or sit behind a kit. There is a strong Thin Lizzy section and a Wall of Fame celebrating Irish artists who made an impact far beyond the island. Tours last around 60–75 minutes and run throughout the day.


It is an easy addon if you are already in Temple Bar, and it gives a much more lively sense of Ireland’s rock and roll story than simply reading about it. Book ahead if you can, as group sizes are kept small.


This is one of the most powerful sites in Dublin. Kilmainham Gaol held many of the key figures in the struggle for Irish independence, including the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising, most of whom were executed here. The guided tour takes you through the cells, the history, and the human stories in a way that is direct and moving without being sensationalised. It is not a light visit, but it is an important one if you want to understand modern Ireland.

Book ahead — it regularly sells out, especially on weekends and in high season.


The Georgian Doors of Dublin
The Georgian Doors of Dublin

Georgian Dublin

Away from the busiest tourist streets, the Georgian squares and streets give you a different face of the city. Merrion Square and St Stephen’s Green are the two best starting points. The red-brick terraces, the fanlights above the doors, and the formal layout still feel elegant. These areas also have strong literary connections — Oscar Wilde, W.B. Yeats and many others lived or spent time in this part of the city. It is ideal for a slower wander, especially if you want a break from queues and ticketed attractions.


Free Museums Worth Visiting

Dublin has a genuinely strong set of free museums. These are excellent options if you arrive early, have free afternoons, or simply prefer not to spend money on every single attraction:

  • National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology (Kildare Street) Outstanding collections. The Viking Dublin material and the prehistoric gold are particularly strong. Easy to reach and well worth an hour or two.

  • National Museum of Ireland – Natural History (“the Dead Zoo”) A wonderfully old-fashioned museum that feels almost unchanged for decades. The Victorian display style is part of the charm. Children often love it; adults usually find it quietly fascinating.

  • Hugh Lane Gallery: Modern and contemporary art in a beautiful setting. The reconstructed studio of Francis Bacon is the standout for many visitors.

  • Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA) Set in the historic Royal Hospital Kilmainham. The combination of the art, the architecture and the grounds makes it a rewarding visit, especially if you pair it with Kilmainham Gaol.


These museums give you quality without the ticket price and help balance a trip that can otherwise become expensive.


Ready for a Dublin Night Out?
Ready for a Dublin Night Out?

Traditional Irish Nights

If you want a structured evening of traditional Irish music, dance and food rather than taking your chances with a pub session, Dublin has several reliable options. These are ticketed dinner-and-show experiences designed for visitors — they remove the uncertainty of whether a good session will be on, and they usually include a multi-course meal.


Here are the main ones currently running:


Held at the Arlington Hotel on Bachelor’s Walk, right beside O’Connell Bridge in the heart of Dublin city centre. A solid, central option that combines a three-course meal with live music and dancing. It works well if you want something organised without travelling far from the city centre and prefer a guaranteed evening rather than hunting for a traditional session yourself.


One of the most consistently well-regarded Irish Nights in Dublin. The pub is owned by traditional musicians who actually perform in the show, which gives it a bit more authenticity than some of the more polished tourist productions. You can choose dinner + show or show-only tickets. They usually operate a shuttle service from the city centre, which makes the short trip out to Rathfarnham straightforward. Many visitors rate this as their favourite of the structured nights.


The Above video is from the Merry Ploughboy Pub Show that I recorded.


A proper destination experience. Johnnie Fox’s claims the title of the highest pub in Ireland and has been running its Hooley Show for years. Expect a multi-course meal followed by high-energy music, singing and Irish dancing in a characterful old pub setting. Because it’s up in the mountains, most people either drive, take a taxi, or use the organised transport options that are often available with the ticket. It feels more of an outing than a city-centre evening.


A long-running, larger-scale Irish Night with dinner, live band, and professional dancers. It leans more towards the big-production end of the spectrum and has been entertaining visitors for decades. Good if you want a lively, high-energy show in a purpose-built venue.

Video above filmed by me at Taylors Three Rock - A large venue where there is a audience participation.


Held at the Belvedere Hotel in the city centre. This one features professional dancers (many with Riverdance / Lord of the Dance experience) and a three-course meal. It is more compact and central than the mountain or Rathfarnham options, and there is usually some audience interaction/chance to try a few dance steps.


A more intimate alternative, often held in a Georgian townhouse setting. It aims for a “house party” atmosphere rather than a big stage show, with traditional music, song, storytelling and dancing. Available with or without the dinner option.

Practical notes

  • Book ahead, especially in peak season or at weekends — the better-known nights can sell out.

  • Check whether transport is included or available. Merry Ploughboy and Johnnie Fox’s are the two that most often offer shuttle options from the centre.

  • These are structured tourist experiences. They deliver reliable entertainment and a meal, but they are different from a spontaneous trad session in a local pub (places like The Cobblestone, O’Donoghue’s or The Celt still offer the free, more authentic session atmosphere if you prefer that).

  • Prices and exact inclusions (number of courses, drinks, transport) vary, so always check the current details when booking.



These options give you a proper evening of Irish music and dance without the risk of turning up to a quiet pub.


Practical Tips & Free Time Ideas

  • Temple Bar Guinness prices are significantly higher than elsewhere in the city. Watch the price-check video before you order so you know what “normal” currently looks like.

  • Some of the best traditional music sessions still happen outside the absolute centre. Hotel staff and locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction if you ask.

  • Weather changes quickly. Layers and a light waterproof will serve you better than an umbrella on windy days.

  • If you have free time — especially if you arrive before you can check into your hotel — the free museums, a walk along the Liffey, or simply sitting in a proper local pub are often more rewarding than adding another paid attraction.

  • Dublin is generally safe, but like any capital city it has pickpockets in the busiest tourist areas. Keep an eye on bags in Temple Bar and around the main stations.


Suggested 2–3 Day Outline


So much to do even Oscar Wilde was Exhausted!
So much to do even Oscar Wilde was Exhausted!
  • Day 1 Arrive and use the airport transfer options from the video. Settle in, then head to Trinity College and the Book of Kells. Afterwards, walk through Temple Bar (without overspending) and finish the evening either in a less touristy pub or at the Traditional Irish Night.


  • Day 2: Start at Dublin Castle, then walk to the National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology. Continue through St Stephen’s Green and the Georgian streets. In the afternoon, choose either the Guinness Storehouse or the Jameson Distillery. Keep the evening free!


  • Day 3 (if you have longer): Kilmainham Gaol paired with IMMA in the same area. Afterwards, choose between the Hugh Lane Gallery or the Natural History Museum, then allow time for relaxed exploring or a short day trip if the weather is good.


Final Thoughts

Dublin works best when you balance the famous sights with a bit of local realism. The city is friendly, walkable and full of character, but it will happily take your money if you stay only in the most touristy spots and never look at the prices. Use the airport video to arrive smoothly, the Temple Bar price check to drink smarter, and the free museums when you want quality without the ticket price! I hope this guide helps you enjoy the city properly.


If you found any of this useful then please consider Subscribing to my YouTube Channel. Or become a sponsor on YouTube or SubscribeStar. Or if you would simply like to buy me a coffee you can do so via Ko-Fi. I'm not sponsored by any tourist board. I provide this information as I believe it will be helpful to readers like yourself.


Safe travels, The Wondering Englishman


Comments


Donate with PayPal
bottom of page