Christmas in London. The phrase alone conjures images of Dickensian streets, glittering shop windows, and carollers singing under the gas lamps. It’s a time of year that should be magical, but let’s not kid ourselves—modern London sometimes struggles to embrace the season like they once did.
Under the watchful eye of our glorious Mayor, Sadiq Khant, it often feels like Christmas takes a backseat to other celebrations. Ramadan gets banners, Diwali gets budgets, but Christmas? Well, we’re lucky if it gets an afterthought. The iconic Oxford Street lights are often scaled back (or recycled), and don’t get me started on Trafalgar Square’s tree, which each year looks more like a rejected twig from Norway than a symbol of festive cheer.
But despite the city’s leadership seemingly forgetting the “Christ” in Christmas, Londoners and visitors alike can still uncover its magic. This guide will show you the best ways to make the most of the season—because even when the odds are stacked against it, London still knows how to do Christmas better than most.
Where to Stay: A Cozy Base for the Festivities
First things first: you need a good place to stay. London has no shortage of options, but during Christmas, it’s worth splashing out for comfort and proximity to the festivities. Here are my top five picks:
Nestled on the edge of Hyde Park, the Royal Garden Hotel is an ideal base for anyone wanting to dive headfirst into London’s festive spirit. This luxurious gem offers more than just a comfortable place to rest your head—it’s an experience. With panoramic views of Kensington Gardens and beyond, it feels like a private oasis in the heart of the city. Christmas here is a delight. Their festive afternoon tea is an indulgence not to be missed, featuring traditional treats like mince pies and scones, all served with a touch of elegance. Just a stone’s throw away, you’ll find Hyde Park’s famous Winter Wonderland—a must-visit for festive markets, ice skating, and hot mulled wine. The rooms at the Royal Garden Hotel are spacious, and impeccably designed, and provide a cosy retreat from the chilly London air. After a day of exploring, you can unwind with a drink in their intimate bar or enjoy a sumptuous meal at one of their award-winning restaurants.
There’s something undeniably magical about Christmas at The Savoy. This iconic hotel, steeped in history and luxury, transforms into a winter wonderland every December. Step into their grand lobby, and you’ll be greeted by a show-stopping Christmas tree, lavishly decorated and surrounded by sparkling lights. The Savoy doesn’t just do Christmas—it owns Christmas. If you’re in the mood to treat yourself, their river-view suites are worth every penny. Overlooking the Thames, these rooms offer a front-row seat to London’s festive buzz. The Savoy also knows how to keep your taste buds entertained, with their world-class restaurants like The Savoy Grill serving indulgent Christmas menus. And let’s not forget the festive afternoon tea, where you can sip champagne and sample seasonal delights while basking in the glow of this iconic institution.
For a Christmas experience that feels like stepping into a classic British novel, The Churchill Hotel in Marylebone is a perfect choice. This charming hotel exudes a sense of quiet sophistication, making it an excellent option for travellers seeking a more traditional, less commercialised festive vibe. Picture this: roaring fireplaces, soft armchairs, and the inviting scent of mulled wine wafting through the air. The Churchill’s cosy corners are perfect for curling up with a good book or simply soaking in the holiday spirit. Its Marylebone location means you’re away from the hustle and bustle of central London but still close enough to easily access the city’s festive attractions. And if you’re a fan of pubs, the area is dotted with some of London’s best, many of which serve hearty Christmas fare. It’s a place where luxury meets homely charm, making you feel as though you’ve found your own private Christmas retreat.
Claridge’s isn’t just a hotel; it’s a landmark of glamour and tradition. At Christmas, this Mayfair icon becomes the epitome of festive luxury. Every year, their Christmas tree is designed by a world-renowned artist or designer, turning the lobby into an art installation that draws visitors from all over the world. Staying here during the holidays feels like being part of a living, breathing Christmas fairy tale. The rooms and suites are as opulent as you’d expect, blending timeless elegance with modern comforts. Dining at Claridge’s is an event in itself, with their Michelin-starred restaurant offering decadent seasonal menus. And if you’re a fan of afternoon tea, Claridge’s version is legendary. Pair all this with the hotel’s prime Mayfair location—perfect for exploring the nearby boutiques of Bond Street or the lights of Oxford Street—and you have a Christmas experience that’s hard to beat.
For a Christmas stay with a bit of an edge, The Hoxton in Shoreditch offers a trendy, budget-friendly option without skimping on style. This East London hotspot has a cool, laid-back vibe that sets it apart from the more traditional choices on this list. It’s ideal for travellers who want a more modern, urban take on the festive season. The rooms at The Hoxton are sleek and functional, with just the right amount of festive touches to keep things cosy. Its location in Shoreditch means you’re perfectly placed to explore East London’s indie Christmas markets, street art, and quirky cafes. And let’s not forget the hotel’s buzzing lobby, which doubles as a hangout spot for locals and travellers alike. With its communal spaces, creative cocktails, and excellent restaurant, The Hoxton manages to feel both intimate and alive—a true reflection of the neighbourhood it calls home.
The Lights (and the Letdowns)
Let’s talk about the Christmas lights in London—a topic that once inspired joy but now often feels like a letdown. It’s no secret that London’s festive lights were once the stuff of legends, drawing visitors from all corners of the globe to marvel at their splendour. But in recent years, they’ve started to lose their shine and the reason? A leadership that seems increasingly indifferent to Christmas traditions.
Under Mayor Sadiq Khan’s administration, it feels as though Christmas has been relegated to the bottom of the priority list. The once-iconic Oxford Street lights are now a shadow of their former glory. What used to be dazzling displays of creativity and cheer has been replaced with recycled decorations and uninspired efforts. You could easily mistake them for leftover banners from a generic winter festival. The mayor’s focus on highlighting other cultural celebrations—while neglecting one of London’s biggest tourist draws—doesn’t go unnoticed. Eid and Diwali celebrations are vibrant and well-funded, while Christmas is treated as an afterthought.
Despite this, Londoners and private businesses refuse to let the city’s festive spirit die. There are still pockets of brilliance that defy the lacklustre efforts from City Hall:
• Covent Garden: This iconic piazza knows how to do Christmas right. A massive, beautifully decorated Christmas tree stands proudly in the square, surrounded by twinkling lights and festive market stalls. The mistletoe installation is a romantic touch that draws couples and photographers alike, proving that when businesses take the reins, they can still deliver magic.
• Regent Street: While Oxford Street struggles, Regent Street keeps the tradition alive with its “Spirit of Christmas” lights. The glowing angels that hover above the street are genuinely breathtaking, and the street’s wide expanse makes it the perfect place to stroll at dusk. Regent Street’s lights are a reminder of what London’s Christmas displays should aspire to.
• Kew Gardens: An absolute standout. If you’re willing to venture slightly out of central London, the Christmas trail at Kew Gardens is worth every penny. This isn’t just a light display—it’s an experience. Walking through tunnels of twinkling lights and past glowing installations set amidst the natural beauty of Kew is nothing short of magical. It’s proof that when thought and care are invested, Christmas lights can still inspire awe.
And then there are neighbourhoods like Marylebone and Chelsea, where local efforts keep the festive flame alive. These areas, free from the constraints of a council seemingly disinterested in Christmas, showcase tasteful decorations and community-driven displays that embody the spirit of the season.
It’s not just about the aesthetics; it’s about the message. London is one of the most multicultural cities in the world, and Christmas is a key part of its identity—not just as a religious holiday but as a cultural celebration that unites people. By downplaying its importance, the city risks alienating not only its residents but also the millions of tourists who visit each year to experience London’s festive charm. These lights aren’t just decorations; they’re symbols of a city’s pride, creativity, and ability to bring people together.
The good news? Londoners are resilient. While City Hall may have forgotten the magic of Christmas, the people and private businesses of this city haven’t. So, bundle up, head to the places that do get it right, and remind yourself that even in a city facing festive neglect from its leadership, the spirit of Christmas shines through in pockets of brilliance.
Festive Activities to Save the Day
While London’s leadership might fumble the finer points of festive decor, the city’s traditions of Christmas activities hold strong. Whether you’re looking for timeless elegance or chaotic fun, there’s something for everyone—if you know where to look. Let’s dive into three standout activities that will make your festive season in London unforgettable (with a few honest caveats along the way).
Ice Skating Under Historic Backdrops
If there’s one thing London gets absolutely right, it’s ice skating at Christmas. Forget the dull, temporary rinks you find in some cities; here, it’s all about the ambience. The iconic Somerset House rink, set against the stunning backdrop of an 18th-century courtyard, feels like a scene from a Christmas movie. Fairy lights twinkle above the ice, and a majestic tree stands tall, giving you the perfect excuse to pause for a photo (or a much-needed break if your skating skills are a bit rusty). After your session, warm up with hot chocolate, festive beers or champagne, if you’re feeling indulgent—at the rink-side café or a nearby pub at the end of the night.
For something more unique, head to Hampton Court Palace, where history and Christmas collide. Skating here is nothing short of magical. As you glide across the ice, the Tudor architecture looms behind you, and you can almost imagine Henry VIII himself watching from a frosty window (though he’d probably be holding a turkey leg instead of skates). It’s an experience steeped in tradition and wonder, far removed from the chaos of central London.
Let’s address the oversized Santa in the room: Hyde Park Winter Wonderland. Once a fresh and exciting addition to London’s Christmas scene, it now feels like it’s lost its way. Yes, it’s undeniably festive with its dazzling lights, oversized ornaments, and German beer halls. But let’s be honest—it’s not quite the magical wonderland it promises to be. As you navigate the throngs of boisterous teenagers, overpriced churro stands, and questionable carnival games, you may find yourself wondering if the festive charm has given way to corporate chaos. That said, Winter Wonderland does have its highlights. The giant observation wheel offers sweeping views of London’s twinkling skyline, and the ice-sculpting exhibits remain genuinely impressive. For those willing to embrace the kitsch (or tolerate the occasional rowdy crowd), the Bavarian beer halls are a decent place to refuel. Grab a stein of beer, hum along to a Christmas tune or two, and try to ignore the fact that you paid triple for what’s essentially a glorified Oktoberfest tent. Pro Tip: Go early in the day if you want to experience the festivities without the overwhelming crowds. Avoid Friday and Saturday nights unless you’re in the mood for a nightclub disguised as a Christmas market.
If Winter Wonderland feels too chaotic, balance it with something serene and utterly breathtaking: a carol service at St. Paul’s Cathedral. Attending a service here isn’t just an activity—it’s an event that stays with you long after the holidays are over. The grandeur of the cathedral, with its towering dome and intricate mosaics, sets the stage for an unforgettable Christmas experience. The acoustics inside St. Paul’s are nothing short of extraordinary. When the choir begins to sing classics like O Holy Night or Silent Night, you’ll feel a chill that has nothing to do with the cold outside. It’s a profoundly moving experience, whether you’re religious or not. These services tend to fill up quickly, so arrive early to get a good seat. And while you’re there, take a moment to admire the cathedral’s architecture—it’s a true testament to London’s history and resilience. Pro Tip: Pair your visit with a stroll across Millennium Bridge, where the view of St. Paul’s dome against the evening sky is nothing short of magical. End the night with mulled wine at one of the nearby riverside pubs for the perfect festive finish.
From skating in historical courtyards to carols in iconic cathedrals, London has no shortage of ways to make the most of the festive season. Even Winter Wonderland, despite its flaws, can still deliver some Christmas cheer if approached with the right mindset (and patience). Whether you’re seeking elegance, history, or just a good laugh at London’s attempt to outdo itself, these activities will help you create lasting memories of Christmas in the capital. Just don’t forget to pack your gloves—and your sense of humour.
The Markets Worth Your Time
Not all Christmas markets are created equal, and in London, you’ll find the full spectrum—from charming riverside spots to overcrowded, overpriced chaos. But if you know where to go, you can uncover the markets that are truly worth your time (and money).
Greenwich Market
Tucked away in one of London’s most historic neighbourhoods, Greenwich Market is a hidden gem during the festive season. While it operates year-round, it transforms at Christmas, with twinkling lights, holiday decorations, and stalls offering a delightful mix of gifts and food. What sets Greenwich Market apart is its individuality. Forget mass-produced trinkets—you’ll find local artisans selling handmade jewellery, bespoke art, and quirky gifts that feel personal and unique. The market’s intimate size and covered setting make it a cosy spot to browse without feeling overwhelmed by the crowds. Pair your visit with a stroll through nearby Greenwich Park, where panoramic views of London await. If the cold gets to you, warm up with a hot cider or mulled wine from one of the market’s food vendors while enjoying the friendly, community-driven atmosphere.
Christmas by the River at London Bridge
If you’re after spectacular views of London paired with festive cheer, Christmas by the River is a fantastic choice. Nestled along the Thames near Tower Bridge, this market offers one of the most picturesque settings in the city. The stalls here are packed with artisan goods and festive treats, making it a great spot for finding unique gifts. The riverside location also means you can enjoy stunning views of the illuminated Tower Bridge and the Shard while sipping on a hot chocolate or mulled wine. This market strikes a good balance between lively and manageable, offering a festive escape without the overwhelming crowds of more commercialized spots. It’s perfect for an evening stroll, especially if you’re already exploring London’s historic landmarks nearby.
For a truly magical experience, escape the city and head to Waddesdon Manor Christmas Market. Located just over an hour outside London, this market is a must-visit for those who want to combine Christmas shopping with breathtaking scenery. Set against the grand neo-Renaissance backdrop of Waddesdon Manor, the market exudes sophistication. Wooden chalets line the manor’s grounds, offering high-quality gifts ranging from handcrafted candles to gourmet delicacies. Unlike many city markets, there’s a sense of calm and tradition here that feels almost otherworldly. The manor itself becomes part of the festive magic, with its façade illuminated by dazzling light projections. Visitors can also enjoy a guided house tour to see the interiors lavishly decorated for the holidays. Be sure to try the Rothschild wine tastings—they’re the perfect way to cap off your visit. Pro Tip: Go in the late afternoon so you can shop the market by daylight, tour the house, and then experience the lights as evening falls. It’s an unforgettable day out.
London’s Christmas markets are all about atmosphere, and the best ones go beyond just shopping to create an experience. Greenwich Market offers charm and individuality, Waddesdon Manor delivers fairy-tale magic just outside the city, and Christmas by the River combines stunning views with festive cheer. If you’re exploring further, Spitalfields Christmas Market in East London is well worth a visit. Its historic setting, combined with a modern selection of pop-ups from local designers and artisans, makes it a haven for unique gifts. The market also features a fantastic range of seasonal food and drink—perfect for warming up as you browse. For something truly enchanting, the Chelsea Physic Garden’s Christmas Fair offers a curated collection of gifts in a serene and historic setting, ideal for those seeking a quieter festive experience. Skip the overcrowded and uninspired markets and focus on these gems—they remind us that Christmas is about quality, not quantity, and a little effort to find the best can make all the difference.
Eat, Drink, and Be Merry
Christmas in London isn’t just about twinkling lights and festive markets—it’s also about indulging in the season’s most delicious flavours. From traditional English fare to quirky takes on festive dining, London offers something for every palate. Whether you’re after a hearty pub roast, a luxurious afternoon tea, or the vibrant atmosphere of a bustling market, this city has you covered. Here’s where to eat, drink, and make merry this Christmas.
Borough Market
London’s oldest and most famous food market is a treat at any time of year, but at Christmas, it becomes a paradise for food lovers. Picture this: the smell of roasting chestnuts, mulled cider warming in cauldrons, and stalls piled high with artisan cheeses and festive baked goods. Don’t miss the freshly baked mince pies—they’re a must-try staple of English Christmas. Look for the ones packed with rich, spiced fruit and a buttery, flaky crust. Another essential is the Christmas pudding, a dense and boozy dessert made with dried fruits and brandy, often served with a dollop of brandy butter. Borough Market is also a great place to pick up savoury treats, like venison pies or sausage rolls, perfect for a quick snack between sightseeing. If you’re in the mood for something heartier, some stalls offer hot, seasonal dishes like turkey sandwiches with cranberry sauce or slow-cooked beef stews served in crusty bread bowls. Pair it with a warming cup of mulled wine or hot chocolate laced with orange and spices to keep the chill at bay.
Traditional Pubs
No visit to London at Christmas would be complete without a meal at one of its historic pubs. These cosy, atmospheric venues are the heart and soul of British hospitality during the festive season, often decked out in twinkling lights and roaring fireplaces.
• The Churchill Arms, Kensington: Famous for its over-the-top decorations (both inside and out), this pub offers a Christmas menu bursting with traditional English flavours. Think succulent roast turkey with sage stuffing, crispy roast potatoes, Brussels sprouts, and lashings of gravy. Pair it with a pint of ale or a glass of mulled wine for the full experience.
• The Spaniards Inn, Hampstead: One of London’s oldest pubs, this charming spot is steeped in history. Their Christmas dinner menu features all the classics, from turkey to honey-glazed ham, and even a vegetarian nut roast for those looking for a meat-free option. Don’t forget to order a side of pigs in blankets—sausages wrapped in crispy bacon, a quintessential Christmas indulgence. For dessert, you can’t go wrong with a slice of treacle tart or sticky toffee pudding, both rich, sweet, and wonderfully comforting.
Festive Afternoon Tea
There’s something undeniably indulgent about Christmas afternoon tea, and London’s best establishments go all out for the season.
• The Savoy: The gold standard for festive teas, The Savoy’s Christmas afternoon tea is an elegant affair featuring delicate sandwiches, warm scones, and seasonal pastries. Expect treats like gingerbread macarons, spiced fruit tarts, and chocolate yule logs—all served on fine china with a glass of champagne to toast the season.
• The Ritz: Another classic, The Ritz offers a Christmas tea that includes live carol singing in its opulent Palm Court. Their mince pies and Christmas cake are legendary, and the atmosphere is pure festive bliss.
• Sketch, Mayfair: For a quirky twist on tradition, Sketch transforms its iconic pink gallery into a festive wonderland. The menu includes creative takes on classics, like cranberry éclairs and orange-and-cinnamon-infused scones. It’s a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds.
Traditional English Christmas Foods You Must Try
London is the perfect place to dive into traditional English Christmas fare. Beyond the ubiquitous turkey roast, there are several dishes that capture the heart of the season:
• Christmas Pudding: This rich, dense dessert is a staple at any British Christmas table. Made with dried fruits, nuts, suet, and plenty of brandy, it’s steamed for hours and served warm with brandy butter or custard. Some families even set it alight with a splash of alcohol for a dramatic finish.
• Mince Pies: Once filled with meat, these sweet pies are now made with spiced fruit and suet or butter. The best ones have a flaky pastry and a fragrant filling laced with warming spices like cinnamon and nutmeg.
• Roast Goose: Before turkey became the norm, the goose was the traditional centrepiece of a Christmas meal in England. It’s making a comeback in many London restaurants, prized for its rich flavour and crispy skin - it's always been my meat of choice on Christmas day with my family back in the Shire.
• Pigs in Blankets: These bite-sized sausages wrapped in bacon are so beloved they’ve become a Christmas essential. You’ll find them as sides in pub roasts and even in sandwiches at markets.
• Trifle: A classic layered dessert of sponge cake, fruit, custard, and cream. Some versions include a sherry-soaked sponge for an extra festive kick.
London’s Christmas food scene is as diverse as the city itself, blending time-honoured traditions with modern twists. Whether you’re wandering through Borough Market, tucking into a hearty pub roast, or indulging in an opulent afternoon tea, the city offers countless ways to celebrate the season through food. And while you’re at it, don’t forget to try some traditional English treats—after all, Christmas is the perfect excuse to eat, drink, and be very, very merry.
Final Thoughts: London’s Festive Spirit Lives On
Despite the Mayor’s best efforts to dilute the Christmas season into a bland, generic “winter holiday,” Londoners—and savvy visitors—still find ways to embrace the magic of the season. The city’s festive traditions, whether carried by private businesses, community initiatives, or timeless venues, remind us that Christmas is about far more than government-approved decorations or budget constraints. From skating under historic arches at Somerset House to sipping mulled wine in bustling markets like Greenwich or Christmas by the River, there’s no shortage of ways to rediscover the city’s holiday charm. Even when some areas falter—be it tired light displays or overcrowded tourist traps—the pockets of genuine magic still shine brightly. London at Christmas is a city of contrasts. It’s a place where centuries-old traditions meet modern-day chaos, where the spirit of the season is kept alive by those who care to preserve it. So, wrap up warm, grab a mince pie, and wander the streets of a city that might not always get it right, but when it does, it delivers moments of festive joy you’ll remember forever. Because despite its flaws, London still knows how to shine when it matters most.
What’s your favourite thing about Christmas in London? Drop your thoughts below or send me a message—let’s keep the festive spirit alive!
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Happy Christmas! - The Wondering Englishman
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